An Open Letter To Japan

Dear Japan,

I wasn't so sure about you. Okay...that's a lie. I was pretty sure I wanted absolutely nothing to do with you. My career was skyrocketing and, you, a meteorite dead ahead. If Alaska was Siberia, you were Mars. Strange, unchartered territory.

Alaska, the beautiful.

And we joked. Said I would be some kobe beef massager, a women's basketball player...the careers as far fetched as the thought of calling you home.

We stepped off that plane into the arms of what would be our friends, our family. But I didn't know. It was all too much, frankly. The sun was blinding, air so thick you could drink it. How will I ever call this inhospitable planet, home?

Our first year together wasn't perfect. Far from it. You tried, really, you did. And I? I was still rereading the last chapter, savoring every word, every syllable. But you kept trying, boisterously coloring my vision with scenery fit for the likes of National Geographic. In late August, you finally broke through.

Maybe it was all the chanting, or the lights, or perhaps the chu hi, but at that festival, on that humid night, you wiggled your way into my heart. My eyes were opened, wide, to the beauty, your beauty, sitting there all along.

You gently tugged me along, showing me a whole world I had been blind to until then. You wove the right people into my life, the people willing to explore with me.

We went everywhere that year - Bali, Tokyo, Singapore, Thailand, Cambodia, Vietnam. And when we weren't filling our passports, you were dazzling us with colorful autumn leaves, set against mountains and castles; pure, white snow, perfect for learning how to ski; pink showers of sweet cherry blossoms; and royal blue tides, lapping a shore littered with sand dollars and sea glass. For the first time in a long time, I was content. Happy.

But you weren't done just yet. It was just the beginning, really. Each passing day, each perfect bowl of ramen, each ohayo gozaimasu, led me further into gratitude. And we continued down the path together - Australia, Sapporo, Thailand again.

Three years later, we've come full circle. Except this time, I'm a Martian. And you? You're...home. 

My heart holds on to the belief that someday, I'll actually be ready when it's time to go. Someday...but not now. Not today.

Sayonara, Japan. 

Viva, Las Vegas!

Tons of Fun Takes Japan - Tokyo

At the end of May, my baby brother came to Japan for a visit. It was his first real time visiting another country (Mexico doesn't really count), and he had a great time. To make the most of his experience, I recommended we start the trip in Tokyo, then spend the second half in northern Japan where I live.

Writing on the wall of a random bar in Shinjuku.

We stayed in Shinjuku, which is probably my favorite area of Tokyo. It's easy to get to many different sites of interest, and it's not horribly expensive. The first night we just wandered around Shinjuku and found ourselves at a little laid back bar in some basement, so standard Japan.

The next morning, Grant woke me up at 6 in the morning to sightsee. Not being quite ready yet, I let him take a solo journey to McDonald's and slept for another hour. When we finally got going, our first stop was Senso-ji, a Buddhist temple in Asakusa. Senso-ji is the oldest temple in Tokyo, and is one of the biggest ones I've seen.

After Senso-ji, we went to the Tokyo Skytree, which Mark & I went to over Christmas. Unfortunately, the weather was fairly hazy, as it usually is in the summer, and we weren't able to see Mt. Fuji.

Nature meets man in Tokyo

We then went to Koto to see the Kameido Tenjin Shrine. The grounds are supposed to be covered in wisteria flowers in the beginning of May and I was hoping they would still be in bloom. Unfortunately, they were not, but it still made for some amazing views. We spent the evening wandering Shinjuku again, taking in all the sights and turned in for an earlier night.

The next morning, we started by going to Shibuya Crossing, the busiest intersection in the world. Some students told us that 3,000 people cross the street at every light change, which I totally believe. It is controlled chaos, with everyone going in all different directions.

Before the madness

So many people!

Shibuya is very close to Harajuku, which is where Yoyogi Park and the Meiji Shrine are located. Sundays are supposed to be the day to go to Yoyogi because that's when the Japanese lolita and gothic subculture hang out.

Lacross in Yoyogi Park

Yoyogi also has a big botanical garden

As we later found out, the police are cracking down on the subculture, so it's now just mainly families enjoying the afternoon.

We still found a bagpipe player, so win on that front.

Commercial being shot in the park. I've seen so many commercials being filmed since moving to Japan.

Just enjoying the park

On our way from the park to the Meiji Shrine, we picked up a bubble soda and chu-his. Bubble sodas have a little white ball at the top that you shove through a little hole into the soda. Whatever, it's fun, don't judge.

More fun people at Yoyogi

And chu his are the better tasting 4 Loco of Japan. They fuel many of our adventures since it's completely legal to drink on the street in Japan. The flavors vary by season and region, so it's fun to try a bunch of different kinds.

Traditional Japanese wedding at Meiji Shrine

As we were walking towards Meiji Shrine, we were stopped by a group of Japanese students. They asked us if they could take us on a tour of the shrine as part of their school project. We obviously accepted and ending up learning a lot about shrines.

They taught us how to buy omikuji, Japanese fortunes. This shrine had them in English and Japanese.

Then, they taught us the proper way to cleanse before entering the temple, and politely told us to chug our chu his before entering. Inside we saw a traditional Japanese wedding. They explained that since the woman was wearing a white hat it meant it was her first marriage.

They told us to take a picture here for good luck in our relationship

After we went through the temple, they sent us on our way to the Shinjuku Gyoen Garden. We learned that they typically give 4 - 5 tours to English speaking tourists on the weekends to improve their language skills. They were very easy to understand and a good group of students.

Our tour guides and us under the torii

Next, we went to Shinjuku to tour the Shinjuku Gyoen Garden before going to the Robot Cafe that night. 

The gardens are huge, and are specifically styled to different regions around the world. Our favorite was the traditional Japanese style and the greenhouse.

The gardens were so green

From there we walked to the Robot Cafe. We got there a little too early, so we grabbed a drink at a bar next to the cafe and met some girls from the states. I helped them navigate a little bit and taught them the Japanese that I knew.

Waiting for the show to begin

This was my second trip to the Robot Cafe. The last time we went was during our Christmas trip, and it was just as awesome the second time around. Grant had a great time, and said it was one of his favorite parts of the entire trip.

Drinks at Alice in Wonderland in Shinjuku

Since we had to go to the early show for the Robot Cafe, we decided to find some fun bars in Shinjuku. We walked past a graphic that looked like Alice in Wonderland so we took the elevator to the basement to check it out. There was no one behind the counter when we got there, and just as we were about to turn and leave we heard a knock and the wall shifted to reveal a secret room and a hostess dressed as Alice. The drinks were expensive, but delicious.

Bathroom at a library themed bar.

We then hopped around to a couple different themed cafes, before stopping by a Lawson for chicken and chu his.

Bullet train!

The next morning we took the bullet train back up to Misawa. Grant was super excited about riding the train, and to see rural Japan. 

Happy Japanniversary!

Living it up in northern Japan - no questions, no life jackets, no worries...

It's hard to believe another year has passed, and even more amazing is how much one year can really change everything. As you may recall, or if you speak to me on a semi-regular basis, year one was rough. I was missing my friends, my career, and the comforts of the states.

Then, something just...happened. Suddenly everything didn't seem so bad. In fact, everything seemed amazing. Here I am, young, able-bodied, actually living in a foreign country, and what I am doing about it? Nothing. Starting last August, I decided to make this year count. To see everything, truly see it, and allow myself to get lost in my surroundings.

Explore.

Akita Kanto Festival in August

And explore I did. I found likeminded people, as willing and eager to travel as me. At the end of August, I traveled to Bali with a good friend. We had a blast taking in the local culture, petting the monkeys in the Monkey Forest, and day drinking at the beach.

When we returned, Mark and I spent a lot of time on the water. When your house isn't air conditioned, you might as well just be outside.

Jackson at Lake Towada

Big Buddha during Obon, one of the major Japanese holidays

And as the summer cooled off, and fall started, my parents arrived. We got to show them a bit of our world as the leaves slowly started to change color and reveal the most beautiful season in Japan.

Osorezan, a major holy site

Trying to get the hang of chopsticks at CoCo's Curry

After they left, the festival season was pretty much over. Though I did get to face my fears and catch a salmon with my bare hands at the Rokkasho Salmon Festival.

Since Mark was gone for Thanksgiving, I spent it with friends.

With sweet potatoes as big as your head.

To celebrate his return, we spent Christmas in Tokyo. It was our first official visit, and our virgin Robot Cafe venture.

Inside Tokyo Tower

Robot Cafe, the best place in Tokyo

Since winter was in full swing by that point, we spent pretty much every weekend on the slopes.

We weren't the only ones loving the snow

Before Mark left on deployment, we had one last hoorah in Thailand, the coolest country I never even thought I would want to visit.

And pretty soon spring came in hot and heavy, with more flower festivals than you can even count.

Yabusame Festival in Towada-shi

Azaleas in Shichinohe

Nanohana in Yokohama

In May, my baby brother came to visit, so I met him in Tokyo.

Senso-ji Temple in Tokyo

Shibuya Crossing - the busiest intersection in the world

Yoyogi Park on a Sunday

After spending a few days in the city, I took him up north, and used it as an opportunity to go all the places I hadn't been yet.

Feeding the wild horses of Cape Shiriya

Feeling so small in the big world at the Hotokegauara Cliffs

Getting spiritual in the land of 100 torii gates

Just when things seemed like they were about to slow down, I traveled to Cambodia.

Banteay Srei, the temple of women

Ta Phrom

And on a whim, we added Vietnam to the trip.

Looking like locals in Hoi An

The Halong Bay

Thankfully, I got back to Japan for 4th of July. We celebrated with chu his, fireworks, and camping in Fukaura.

The dogs got to come with

And before I knew it, year two was over, with my heart and my passport more full than the previous year. Cheers to year two, bigger and better than year one. Here's to hoping year three, the final year, can keep up!